Learn how to replace the alternator on your 1963-1982 Corvette. Replacing your Corvette’s alternator requires basic hand tools and a multimeter to determine the voltage the alternator is producing. Your Corvette’s alternator is an essential component in the electrical system of your Corvette, since it supplies the necessary DC voltage and keeps the battery charged. Like all things mechanical, eventually it wears out and fails.
The project car shown in our Corvette Alternator Replacement Technical Article is a 1967 Corvette 427 coupe, which had an incorrect chrome-plated alternator in it. The procedures detailed in the technical article are the same for small or big block Corvette engines from 1963 through 1982. Follow along and see how easy it really is to do this Corvette alternator replacement yourself.
Click here to read the entire Corvette Alternator Replacement Article.
Corvette Alternator, Corvette Alternator Mounting, Corvette Alternator Replacement, Corvette Alternator Voltage, Corvette Big Block Alternator, Corvette Small Block Alternator, Corvette Voltage Regulators
If you are leaning towards repairing your Corvette’s fiberglass rather than spending hundreds of dollars to replace particular body panels consider using some of these Corvette Fiberglass Repair Materials. By repairing your original Corvette’s Body Panels you are of course saving money, but you are also keeping the Corvette that much more original. With the older Corvettes, originality is critical; the more original your Corvette is, the more it will be worth. By selling these Corvette Fiberglass Repair Materials Zip offers yet another way for you to keep your Corvette true to form. Many customers call us asking what they need, and the materials can be confusing so here is a quick breakdown of our Corvette fiberglass repair materials.
Corvette Fiberglass Roller
Eliminating air bubbles & excess resin are the key elements in assuring a strong, durable repair. This 1/2″ x 3″ Fiberglass Mat Roller will help alleviate such problems & produce professional results.
Corvette Fiberglass Mat
Corvette Fiberglass Mats are available in 50″ x 1 yard and 50″ x 3 yards. The 1 1/2 ounce fiberglass mats are ideal in weight for all Corvette fiberglass repairs. Insist on quality grade Corvette fiberglass mat – There is a difference!
Corvette Fiberglass Resin
Our Corvette Resin has been specifically designed to provide outstanding adhesion to factory Corvette fiberglass. Fast curing time & high strength makes this the professionals first choice. MEKP hardener, which is a catalyst for all polyester resins and gel-coats is included. MEKP hardener can also be purchased separately.
Fiberglass Spray Gel-coat
Spray Gel-Coat is the only product of its kind currently available that will permanently seal errant fiberglass strands. Spray gel-coat’s unmatched sealing qualities also prevents body fillers from bleeding through to ruin otherwise perfect Corvette paint jobs. MEKP hardener is included with the spray gel-coat.
Fiberglass Bonding Adhesive
Bonding Adhesive has been specifically designed to provide unsurpassed adhesion when bonding fiberglass to bonding strips. Adhesive is formulated to grip even in instances of severe expansion, contraction & vibration. Do not use bonding adhesive as a surface filler on your Corvette.
Corvette Fiberglass Body Filler
This Corvette Body Filler has virtually eliminated intolerable shrinkage, pin holing, & bleed through found in other fillers. Simply stated, this easy-to-use body filler is the best money can buy! Cream hardener, which is great for colder temperatures and will create a quicker cure is included with the body filler.
Corvette Paint Stripper
Auto Spra-Strip Paint Remover is the easiest solution available for removing paint on your Corvette. Spra strip achieves a complete chemical balance with paint on your fiberglass. Simply spray non-aerosol stripper on the Corvette and paint can be removed in minutes. Spra strip will remove epoxy, enamel, polyurethane, acrylic, lacquer, imron, varnish, undercoating, grease, and bondo. Safe on all surfaces except urethane bumpers.
Be aware when you purchase many of these Corvette Fiberglass Repair Materials that they have a shelf life of approximately three months. All this means is when your order the product you should be ready to use the repair materials sooner rather then later.
Corvette Fiberglass, Corvette Fiberglass Body Filler, Corvette Fiberglass Mat, Corvette Fiberglass Repair Materials, Corvette Paint Remover, Fiberglass Bonding Adhesive, Fiberglass Gel-Coat, Fiberglass Mat Roller, Fiberglass Resin
C4 Corvette valve covers are huge eyesores under your Corvette’s hood if they have not been maintained over the years. Even if your Corvette has been garage kept and well maintained, old faded valve covers are hard to avoid. The mixture of engine oil and dirt with some occasional water or other substances can really fade or rust your Corvette’s valve covers over time. Even if the Corvette was rarely driven the valve covers would still fade as they age.
C4 Corvette Valve Covers
If you have driven your C4 Corvette on a daily basis as many people have, take a look at your valve covers. If they look anything like the majority of the valve covers that we see on a daily basis then a can of Corvette Valve Cover Paint might be a quick fix for the looks of your Corvette’s engine compartment.
Our Corvette Valve Cover Paint will restore your discolored OEM valve covers from engine heat, cleaning chemicals and/or road grime to their original factory finish. This paint is the correct tint as used on original C4 Corvette valve covers and one can is enough paint to restore both valve covers.
C4, Corvette Valve Cover Paint, Corvette Valve Covers
The 1956-1962 Corvette Wiper Arms were cable-driven from the Corvette’s Wiper Motor. A drum behind the firewall rotated multiple cables to each transmission. Fortunately, these transmission cables do not require adjustment on a regular basis; however, when adjustment is needed, either from cable stretching or following a new installation, Chevrolet designed a system where cable tension can be increased by simply pressing on the outer end of the transmission shaft.
Corvette Wiper Transmission
To illustrate, each transmission has two spools – one for each drive cable. The inside face of each spool has cast teeth locking them together. When the transmission shaft is pressed down, the two spools separate and an internal spring allows the spools to rotate to their tightest position. Once pressure is removed from the transmission shaft, the spools are locked together again and the cables are tight against the wiper motor drum. When removing the transmission, the operation will require the help of an additional person. With one person pressing down on the wiper transmission shaft to “unlock” the spools, the second person (inside the Corvette) must pull against the cables, rotating the spools against the pressure of the spring. Once all the necessary slack is obtained, the wiper transmission shaft can be released and the spools will lock together. This slack will allow the cables to be removed from the wiper motor drum. The Corvette’s Wiper Transmission can then be removed.
Corvette Wiper Arms, Corvette Wiper Motor, Corvette Wiper Transmission, Restoration Tips
Early Corvette Interiors featured a rich tapestry of different materials, textures, and surface finishes. One of the more outstanding features is the aluminum dash insert found in 1958-1962 Corvettes. Replacing the dash insert is not complicated but does require attention to detail and patience.
Aluminum Dash Insert
Begin by removing the screws holding the chrome escutcheons at each end of the passenger side grab bar. Slide the escutcheons toward the center of the bar to expose the screws hidden beneath them. Remove these screws and lift the bar out. Unscrew the nuts that retain the insert assembly to the dash by reaching behind the insert. Once the nuts are removed separate the insert assembly from the dash. Once the insert assembly is out you will see how it is put together. The delicate aluminum insert sits on a heavy steel backing and is held by thin stainless steel trim that clips over the edges of the aluminum and steel around the perimeter. The stainless trim is tack welded to the steel backing and you must cut the welds, a task best accomplished with a small grinder or rotary cutting tool. Take care not to cut beyond the weld or you risk damaging a part of the stainless trim that is visible. After the welds are ground pull the stainless off and separate the aluminum from the backing. Glass bead and paint the normally rusty backing and polish the stainless trim. Lay the new insert onto the backing and carefully clip the stainless back into position. Avoid touching the insert as it scratches easily and even the oil from your fingers can blemish it. Gently clamp the assembly so that both pieces of stainless fully seat. Apply a thin layer of two-part epoxy to the area where the stainless meets the steel backing on the reverse side. After the epoxy dries remove the clamps and reinstall your newly restored assembly.
Corvette Dash, Corvette Interior
Recent Corvette Parts Email
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Coupon, Discounts, Email, Promotions, Sales
One of the most popular questions asked when replacing Corvette Brake Calipers on Midyear and C3 Corvettes is: should I install the original style brake caliper (Lip Seal Design) or the newer O-Ring Seal style? The correct answer is not to install one over the other, but to decide which caliper will be better suited for your restoration or Corvette Brake Overhaul. Not sure which brake caliper is right for you?
Corvette Brake Caliper
Original Shark-era Corvettes had the lip seal design caliper installed. With that said if you would like to keep your Corvette 100% correct then the lip seal is the way to go. However, be aware that prolonged inactivity and/or worn brake components are the enemy of the lip seal design and can very quickly cause your Corvette’s Brake Calipers to leak. If you enjoy exercising your Corvette heartily, or, conversely, your pride and joy often sits for extended periods, O-ring seals are the better choice. They are superior in design all around and offer the best sealing possible.
Now available at Zip Corvette are both front and rear brake caliper o-ring conversion kits. These kits will allow you to convert your Corvette’s Brake Calipers from the original lip seal design to the long lasting o-ring design pistons. The kits include four o-ring style pistons for front and rear calipers, o-rings, dust boots and caliper fluid seals. There are enough components in each kit to convert a single caliper to the o-ring design.
Conversion Kits, Corvette Brake Calipers, Corvette Brake Overhaul, Lip Seal, O-Ring
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – Request one online today.
Corvette Fuel Pump Mount
When changing a fuel pump on any Corvette, the first thing you want to do is remove the gas cap. This keeps fuel from being pushed out of the line from pressure built-up in the tank. Place a catch bucket under the fuel pump lines and disconnect the rubber hoses that connect the frame lines to the Corvette’s fuel pump. Once removed, disconnect the steel line that goes from the pump to the carburetor. On the front side of the block, next to the fuel pump, you’ll see two mounting holes. The upper hole is threaded all the way through the block into the cavity for the fuel pump push rod. Before removing the pump, thread a 3/8” bolt in, lightly tightening the bolt against the push rod. This will lock the push rod in place so that it does not drop when removing the fuel pump. Remove the two fuel pump bolts and the fuel pump will lift out. The fuel pump plate and bottom two bolts do not need to be removed. After installing the new gasket and fuel pump, remove the temporary bolt, releasing the push rod to rest against the fuel pump rocker arm. Reinstall fittings and lines, making sure all threads are properly sealed.
Corvette Carburetor, Corvette Fuel Pump, Corvette Gas
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by one of our Corvette Parts dealers; Jeff Lilly. Visit his Corvette Restoration website today to learn more.
Corvette Door Strap
Installing new door weatherstrip on your Corvette can sometimes cause issues when you go to close your door for the first time. Here is a great way to “break in” the new weatherstrip on your Corvette. Using a small binder strap between the doors is how we break in new Corvette Door Weatherstrip seals during final assembly. This is important if you do not want to tweak your Corvette’s exterior door panels, potentially causing body ripples, especially if the paint work is very refined which allows the tiniest imperfections to be seen. We install J-Hooks to the inside of the door by drilling a small 1/4 inch hole at the bottom or top of the door (with door panel removed) depending on where the rubber is the tightest. Hook the binder to the J-Hooks and tighten, then just click it a notch more every two to three days and this will do the trick. Remove the door catch or striker before doing this for no restriction. Once the doors close easily on their own you can re-install the striker and “voila” perfect sealing and no door distortion! Note it is best to have the seats removed when performing this.
Jeff Lilly is a Corvette Parts Dealer with Zip Corvette. This means that due to his large volume of purchases he receives a considerable discount on Corvette Parts and Accessories. Are you interested in becoming a dealer? Read our Corvette Parts Dealer Programs section for more information.
Corvette Body Weatherstrip, Corvette Door, Corvette Weatherstrip
A Safety Reminder: Asbestos has been utilized in the manufacturing of auto parts like brake pads and linings, clutch facings, and gaskets for decades now. Many people are under the mistaken impression that asbestos has been totally banned from use, but the truth is that it is still used in these products today. This puts auto mechanics and enthusiasts that work on their own cars at serious risk as the inhalation of asbestos dust can lead to debilitating and fatal diseases like asbestosis and lung cancer. Asbestos is also the only known cause of a rare type of lung cancer known as pleural mesothelioma.
The risk of exposure exists when materials that contain asbestos are disturbed or damaged. Dust full of microscopic asbestos fibers is then released into the air. There is consistent abrasion on brake pads and clutches and a large amount of the toxic material is trapped inside the brake housing or clutch space. The dust is then released when replacement or repair work is done.
The symptoms of mesothelioma usually do not exhibit themselves until about 15 to 25 years after exposure. At this point, the cancer is usually in its advanced stages and doctors often find it difficult to treat the cancer effectively. This makes a mesothelioma prognosis (more often than not) a bleak one. It is estimated that since 1940 more than six million mechanics have been exposed to asbestos in brakes. The increasing rate of asbestos-related illnesses has resulted in mechanics, veterans and people of other susceptible occupations filing mesothelioma lawsuits to be compensated for their undeserved illness.
Mechanics and enthusiasts who do auto restoration and repair on older vehicles should take the right precautions to avoid asbestos exposure. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has issued a detailed brochure that offers information regarding OSHA’s regulations for commercial automotive shops concerning asbestos.
If you don’t feel comfortable working on your older Corvette yourself, leave it to a professional.
Asbestos, Cancer, Restoration
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