This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs - request one online today.
There are three different types of Corvette Body Panels available for 1968-1982 Corvettes. Press molded Panels which are original for 68-72 Corvettes, Hand Laid Panels - replacement for 68-82, and Sheet Molded Composite Panels which are original style for 1973-1982 Corvettes. For more information on each panel and how it is manufactured, continue reading below.
Corvette Pre-Assembled Front End
Press Molded Panels – 1968-1972 factory fiberglass panels were produced in molds that created an exceptionally strong part that were smooth on both sides. To help keep your Corvette as original as possible, Zip offers as many press molded pieces as are available. Panels are manufactured to higher quality standards than possible for hand laid panels, using fiberglass mat and resin placed inside matched male/female molds – then pressed together under high pressure and heat to ensure consistent thickness. Original panels are black in color and do not have a gelcoat surface. Note press molded panels require the use of bonding strips when installed.
Hand Laid Panels – Replacement fiberglass panels are built by layering fiberglass mat and resin into a single mold. Construction of each piece begins with the spraying of gelcoat into a female mold; once cured, alternating layers of fiberglass matting and resin are hand rolled to eliminate air pockets and ensure an overall uniform thickness. Once “popped” from the mold, panels are hand trimmed and ground to final shape. Hand laid panels have a smooth exterior and a rough fiberglass/resin underside.
SMC Panels – 1973-1982 Corvettes were assembled of panels made from a sheet molded composite (“SMC”). SMC panels are formed by a high-pressure mold compressing a mix of fiberglass, resin, catalyst and release agent. SMC pieces are smoother than press molded fiberglass panels and have a marbled appearance – typically gray in color. Note SMC panels require special adhesives for bonding.
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today.
1958-1962 Corvette Dash Pads were made from vinyl over a molded foam base. If the vinyl covering is cracked or has shrunk to the extent that gaps are visible, the only effective solution is to install a new pad. Installation of a new pad requires removal of the instrument housing, passenger side grab bar, package tray, aluminum insert, radio speaker grille and rear view mirror. It also requires removal of the interior light escutcheon, trim where the upper dash meets the center dash and complete windshield assembly. The instrument housing is screwed to the dash with five screws that must be accessed from underneath, and tethered by a wide variety of wires and cables that must be disconnected. If you are not familiar where everything goes, it is wise to label each wire and cable before disassembly.
To begin, remove the Corvette’s Steering Column mast jacket lower cover and cover support. These are found right beneath the area where the steering column meets the instrument housing. Disconnect the speedometer and tachometer cables, unplug the wire harnesses to the headlamp switch and ignition switch, unscrew the line to the oil pressure gauge, pull out all of the illumination bulbs, turn signal bulbs, and high beam indicator bulb. Disconnect electrical connections to the fuel gauge, temperature gauge, ammeter and cigarette lighter. Then lift out the instrument housing.
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This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today.
About 80 years ago, while evaluating the effects on gasoline of various heavy metals, scientists discovered that the addition of tetra-ethyl-lead reduced knocking in automobile engines. Lead also had the added benefit of providing lubrication inside the combustion chambers, which was particularly helpful for the exhaust valves and their seats. Because of these beneficial properties, a minimum number of adverse side effects and its low cost, lead became a staple in gas for nearly 50 years.
All of that changed in the early 1970s, when oil companies began phasing lead out because it was incompatible with the catalytic converters that automakers were required to install. By the late 1970s leaded fuel was becoming quite rare and a few years after that it essentially vanished. This is not a problem for newer cars, which have been engineered to run on unleaded fuel, but can be troublesome for many of the older cars still on the road. While the increased anti-knock properties that lead imparted to gasoline have been addressed with various other additives, the same is not true for lead’s lubricating benefit. Newer engines have been designed to operate without the combustion chamber lubrication that lead provided but older engines are susceptible to certain damage without this lubrication. In particular, the exhaust valves and their seats are vulnerable to accelerated deterioration when an older engine is run on unleaded fuel.
There are two ways to address this problem. The first is with the addition of lead or lead substitute to the fuel in your tank. This creates an ongoing expense and is a little bit of a nuisance but is probably the best solution for cars that are driven infrequently. The second way to deal with the absence of lead is to modify your engine so that it does not require upper cylinder lubrication. This is done with the installation of stainless steel valves and hardened valve seat inserts.
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today.
All 1953-1962 Corvettes came with 15”x 5” wheels and full wheel covers as standard equipment. Beginning in 1957 and continuing through 1962, buyers could substitute optional “wide wheels” that were 15”x 5 1/2”. Instead of the standard full cover, wide wheels got a small “dog dish” hubcap that covered only a portion of the wheel.
C1 Corvette
In 1953 and 1954 all Corvettes came with red painted wheels. These were dip painted so they should be red everywhere. Beginning in 1955 wheels were dipped in black primer and then sprayed their final color on the front face. Aside from some color overspray, the backs of the wheels were therefore black regardless of wheel color. Also beginning in 1955, wheel color was determined by the car’s exterior color. Polo White, Gypsy Red, and Pennant Blue exteriors came with red wheels, Corvette Copper got bronze, and Harvest Gold got yellow. In 1956 and 1957, wheel color matched the exterior color with the exception of Polo White cars, the wheels of which were keyed to interior color. If the interior was red the wheels were red and if the interior was beige the wheels were silver.
In 1958 all Corvettes came with silver painted wheels regardless of exterior color. The only possible exception is cars equipped with RPO 276 wide wheels, which may have been painted black. In 1959 all Corvette wheels, including the optional wide wheels, were black.
In 1960-1961 Chevrolet once again painted Corvette wheels to match exterior color. In 1962, cars equipped with optional whitewall tires came with black wheels while cars with standard blackwall tires came with wheels painted to match body color. Optional wide wheels were also painted the same color as the car’s exterior in 1962.
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today. Most Corvette owners – or car owners in general – have no idea that the parts in their car have an expected service life. Did you know the service life of a Corvette’s wiring harness is only 10 years? That means the wiring in your Corvette was built to last 10 years, not the 40 or even 50 years many Corvettes have been on the road. Individual wires within a harness are made of copper strand housed in plastic.
Corvette Dash Harness
Over time, the plastic deteriorates and becomes brittle and cracked, allowing moisture to get into the wire. In turn, the copper corrodes. Ultimately, this process could end in disaster, i.e., corroded wires lead to short circuits – and short circuits have the potential to turn into electrical fires. With vintage Corvettes continuing to climb in both sentimental and monetary value, why gamble on the (usually unseen) condition of an old wiring harness? Cost-wise within the scope of a comprehensive restoration, the fractional expense of new wiring harnesses is your best money spent. Zip’s Corvette wiring harnesses are correct reproductions featuring the same connectors, wire sizes and colors as the originals. Experience new found confidence in your Corvette’s electrical system with all-new harnesses from Zip Corvette!
Purchase new, exact reproduction wiring harnesses for many Corvettes online at Zip Corvette Parts
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today.
Cast iron exhaust manifolds will begin to rust at the first sign of moisture, leaving your Corvette’s engine compartment looking decidedly less than “Best of Show”. Begin removing the manifolds by first liberally spraying all bolts with penetrating oil. Repeat this step at least three or four times over the next hour. The last thing you want is a stud twisted off into the base of your manifold – have patience and take your time with the following steps.
Corvette Exhaust Manifold
Once all bolts are well soaked, loosen the three manifold to pipe stud nuts. With a wire brush, clean the stud under the nut and apply more penetrating oil. Now you can slowly remove the nuts. Next unbolt the manifolds from the head (these bolts are grade 8 and rarely cause problems). Bead blast or wire brush the manifolds to clean off all traces of rust, then wipe them down using a small amount of lacquer thinner. Do not wash the manifolds as cast iron absorbs water. After cleaning, apply Calyx manifold dressing. The secret to applying this cream is to slowly rub it into the manifold, working it down into the pores of the cast iron. Do not use too much, as you only want to change the color of the piece. Reinstall the freshly restored manifolds, step back and admire the results!
For an in depth look on how to detail your Corvette’s exhaust manifolds without removal, click here.
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today.
Everyone knows Corvette bodies are invulnerable to rust but the same is not true for the chassis. The fully boxed side rails and cross members in 1953-1962 models impart significant strength to the chassis but they are particularly susceptible to rust because water can get trapped inside.
1953-1962 Corvette
If the Corvette’s chassis has a rust problem it normally manifests itself in the rear most crossmember first. Other sections that are especially at risk include the side rails in the areas beneath the doors. Because the rot progresses from the inside out, a problem may not be apparent from visual inspection alone. Poke along the bottoms of the rear crossmember and side rails with a pick tool or tap these areas with a ball peen hammer to expose any weaknesses.
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This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today.
Installing new U-joints in your Corvette can turn into a costly job. A simple $30.00 repair could grow into the replacement of your entire driveshaft. For a no-hassle removal, you will need a tool similar to Zip Corvette’s U-Joint Removal Tool, or a standard shop press.
1963-1967 Corvette
Begin by removing the retaining clips on the U-joint bearing caps. Support the underside of the yoke with a large socket (1 1/4”) on the bed of the press, and then begin pressing the U-joint with a smaller socket or rod. Make sure the U-joint is square and all pressure is placed onto the bearing cap – this will help keep the yoke from absorbing the pressure and possibly damaging the driveshaft. Continue pressing the U-joint until it can go no further. Remove the cap you pressed out with a pair of pliers, then reverse the driveshaft and press the opposite cap in the same manner. Once out, you will be able to remove the U-joint from the driveshaft.
To install the new U-joint, lightly sand the inside of the yoke to clean out any corrosion or burrs, then spray with WD-40 to make installation smoother. Begin installation of the new U-joint by removing one cap and pressing it halfway into the driveshaft yoke. Now place the U-joint inside the yoke and press the cap all the way in. Press the second cap into the yoke, being careful to align it with the U-joint. Then reinstall the spring clips and make sure they are fully seated into the groove. You are done!
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – Request one online today.
Nearly all of the major parts found in 1968-1982 Corvettes contain a part number and date code. Developing a better understanding of these numbers and codes and how they relate to one another will enhance your enjoyment of the hobby.
Corvette Engine Stamp
The logical starting point for the analysis of part numbers and date codes on any Corvette is the car’s vehicle identification number (VIN). For all vintage Corvettes the first several characters of the VIN indicate the model year, body style, and assembly plant and the latter characters are the sequential number of each particular vehicle. Beginning in 1972 the fifth character in the VIN indicated which engine the car originally came with. The VIN was stamped into a rectangular metal plate that was riveted to the windshield support frame at the driver side base of the windshield on all 1969-82 Corvettes. Every car’s VIN was also stamped into the chassis in at least one place. For most C3s it was stamped into the chassis on top of the side rail on the driver side in both the area beneath the door and the area above the rear wheel. For all C3s the latter half of the VIN, often called the VIN derivative, was stamped into the car’s original engine block. This stamping was on a flat pad just above the water pump mount area on the passenger side. It also was stamped into the car’s original transmission case.
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