The Corvette did not become America’s favorite sports car by sporting the same old every day colors and designs. It is in a league of its own from every interior detail to all of the Corvette body curves and lines. One thing that most anyone would agree on when buying or looking at a Corvette is that by pure instinct we are all going to focus on several different aspects; including the Corvette’s Carpet. Immediately following a few quick glances at the front and rear carpet it is only natural to come up with our own personal thoughts towards the overall condition. The point is that the cleanliness of the Corvette’s Carpet can have a huge impact on the overall rating of the car. Do not cheat yourself or your Corvette of the glamor well deserved by ignoring the problem right under your feet. An old, faded, or dirty carpet will surely make the entire car look poor, while a new, clean carpet will make it stand out as exceptional.
Corvette Carpet
As certain trends move in and out of style, Corvette Carpet color and material do as well. What was original in 1953 was not the same in 1963. The material used in 1963, may or may not have been used in 1973. What kind of carpet was used in 1993? As you can see there are many questions that have been raised over the years by Corvette enthusiasts just like you. Zip Corvette has put the time and effort into sorting out the different possibilities so you will be certain your Corvette’s Carpet is 100% correct, fits perfect, and looks great too.
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80/20, C1, C2, C3, C4, Carpet, Cut Pile, Daytona, Gros Point, Heat Barrier, Interior, TruVette, Tuxedo, Underlayment
As with any car, the 63-82 Corvette front suspension has many items that wear out over time. In this article we cover almost every aspect of the front suspension as well as the steering system.
Front Suspension
This project is a major rebuild job and will take some time, but your Corvette will feel like new and you know you will not need to worry about anything else in the front suspension for years to come. This is the perfect project for the winter months.
We replaced the springs, power steering pump, ram, valve, hoses, idler arm, drag link, tie rods, sleeves, control arm bushings, bumpers, stabilizer bar bushings, end kits, and shocks on this 1978 Corvette, and all 63-82 Corvettes have very similar front suspension and steering parts.
Click Here to read the entire Corvette Front Suspension Rebuild Article.
C2, C3, Corvette Front Suspension Rebuild, Corvette Steering, Corvette Suspension
Many Corvette enthusiasts who have restored 1953-1982 Corvettes have almost certainly come across one common question. Should I replace the bushings on my Corvette with rubber or polyurethane? When it is all said and done your final decision will come down to what you want out of your Corvette.
Rubber Bushings
With the rubber bushings from Zip Corvette you know you are getting exact reproductions of the originals used in the factory upon assembly. They look, feel, and perform just as the stock bushings would have 30, 40, or even 50 years ago so meeting any NCRS judging requirements will not be an issue. The problem with rubber bushings is that they are far less durable and do not perform like polyurethane bushings. They begin to break down just after a few years and before you know it a new set is once again on the list of Corvette Parts to buy.
Polyurethane Bushings
If you are tired of the rubber bushings or would like to add some performance to your Corvette then polyurethane is the way to go. Polyurethane bushings maximize your suspensions potential with quicker, more predictable responses boosting the performance level of your Corvette. Not only do they increase the performance level but they last much longer then rubber too. The one and only problem with polyurethane bushings is that they are not original. They will not meet NCRS judging standards so for those who are restoring a show car you would want to stay with the rubber as opposed to polyurethane.
Resto Poly Bushings
If you can not make up your mind which way to go then settle for the best of both worlds. The new C1, C2, and C3 “resto poly” bushings from Zip Corvette Parts are designed to look like the original rubber bushings but perform and last like polyurethane. They feature a “matte” finish and utilize the factory brackets designed for your Corvette.
C1, C2, C3, Corvette Bushings, Corvette Polyurethane Bushings, Corvette Rubber Bushings, Corvette Suspension, NCRS Judging, Performance, Polyurethane, Reproductions
Corvette Rear Script
The rear script, along with virtually all other decorative trim and insignias on Mid-Year Corvettes, is made of chrome-plated pot metal. Over time, due to exposure to moisture and the elements, the chrome plating develops pits and pocks as the pot metal underneath the plating reacts to changes in moisture content and air-borne chemicals. While replacing this script is a bit more involved that one would think at first blush, it’s easy enough to do with some simple tools and a couple of hours worth of labor. Here’s how to go about it with a new script…
Click here to read our Corvette Rear Script Replacement Article
C2, Corvette Emblem, Corvette Letters, Exterior, Insignia, Rear, Script, Sting Ray, Trim
Today’s Corvette technical question comes from Tom who owns a 1965 Corvette.
How do I remove the cluster from my 1965 C2 Corvette?
Answer: There is no step by step guide that I know of, but 1965 Corvette clusters are very easy to remove. You can start by disconnecting the battery. Then loosen the column and lower it. Once you have done that you can remove the speedometer and tachometer cables. You will need to disconnect
Midyear Corvette Instrument Cluster
the oil pressure line and make sure you have a little plastic cup under it so no oil gets on your carpet. Once you have done all of this, you can unscrew the dash. To do this unscrew all the perimeter screws around the top and the dash will come out. You will have to unplug all the electrical connectors as well. Once you have completed the following steps you should be able to remove the cluster from your Corvette.
For more information on restoring your Midyear Corvette’s cluster to its original state click here.
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C2, Corvette Cluster, Corvette Oil Pressure Line, Corvette Speedometer, Corvette Tachometer, Midyear
1967 Reproduction Master Cylinder
It is no secret that 1967 Corvette master cylinders, both standard and power, have been on the market for years. Many enthusiasts have gotten by with these basic replacements in the past for the simple fact that there were no other options. Well, what about the dual bleeders that were on the original master cylinders? Or the “DC” and “PG” trademarks that were stamped into the front pad? How about the original GM casting numbers? To some, these details may seem pointless but to an NCRS judge, they could matter.
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C2, Corvette Brakes, Corvette Master Cylinder, J56, NCRS
This Corvette Restoration Tip is brought to you by Zip Corvette and can be found in Zip’s free Corvette Parts & Accessories Catalogs – request one online today.
Installing new U-joints in your Corvette can turn into a costly job. A simple $30.00 repair could grow into the replacement of your entire driveshaft. For a no-hassle removal, you will need a tool similar to Zip Corvette’s U-Joint Removal Tool, or a standard shop press.
63-67 Corvette
Begin by removing the retaining clips on the U-joint bearing caps. Support the underside of the yoke with a large socket (1 1/4”) on the bed of the press, and then begin pressing the U-joint with a smaller socket or rod. Make sure the U-joint is square and all pressure is placed onto the bearing cap – this will help keep the yoke from absorbing the pressure and possibly damaging the driveshaft. Continue pressing the U-joint until it can go no further. Remove the cap you pressed out with a pair of pliers, then reverse the driveshaft and press the opposite cap in the same manner. Once out, you will be able to remove the U-joint from the driveshaft.
To install the new U-joint, lightly sand the inside of the yoke to clean out any corrosion or burrs, then spray with WD-40 to make installation smoother. Begin installation of the new U-joint by removing one cap and pressing it halfway into the driveshaft yoke. Now place the U-joint inside the yoke and press the cap all the way in. Press the second cap into the yoke, being careful to align it with the U-joint. Then reinstall the spring clips and make sure they are fully seated into the groove. You are done!
C2, Corvette Driveshaft, Corvette U-Joint Replacement
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