Corvette Carpet

As certain trends move in and out of style, Corvette Carpet color and material do as well. What was original in 1953 was not the same in 1963. The material used in 1963 may or may not have been used in 1973. What kind of carpet was used in 1993? As you can see there are many questions that have been raised over the years by Corvette enthusiasts just like you. Zip Corvette has put the time and effort into sorting out the different possibilities so you will be certain your Corvette’s carpet is 100% correct, fits perfect and looks great.

The original 1953 Corvette left the factory with what is known as Gros Point carpet. It was made of 100% nylon and had the appearance of fine embroidery. This carpet featured foam backing for added insulation and comfort, heel pads to help prevent quick wear and tear due to frequent use, binding to tie up any possible loose ends and of course, came in the only interior color available, which was red. The Gros Point carpet would remain the standard through 1955 and would become available in beige for all 1954 and 1955 Corvettes.

In 1956, Chevrolet decided it was time to change the Corvette’s carpet from Gros Point to Daytona carpet. The new “Daytona Weave” carpet gave the low loop style presentation with the bottom yarn consisting of 30% nylon, 40% cotton and 30% rayon while the face yarn consisted of 100% nylon. All Corvette Daytona Carpet sets featured foam backing, a haircell vinyl heel pad and matching binding. 1959 would be the last year for the Daytona carpet as it was replaced with a salt & pepper style carpet in many Corvettes. The salt & pepper carpet, A.K.A. Tuxedo carpet was a low loop design carpet consisting of one predominate color (matching the interior) and a less predominate black fiber. These carpet sets also featured foam backing, matching binding and heel pads. Original 1959-1962 black carpet actually appeared to be olive in color. If a true black carpet color is desired you can purchase that, but remember it is not the “original” style.

The mid-years marked a lot of changes from the earlier Corvettes including the carpet. Every 1963-1967 left the factory with what is known as the Corvette 80/20 Loop Carpet. This carpet was made of 80% rayon and 20% nylon. The only difference was in 1963 and 1964 the carpet came with foam backing and in 1965-1967 poly backing was used instead. This 80/20 carpet style continued into the C3 generation coming with all 1968-1976 Corvettes that included a standard interior (non-leather seat covers). The only difference in the 1968-1976 standard interior carpet and the midyear carpet was the shape. This was simply due to the body style changes.

For all 1970-1977 Corvettes ordered with a deluxe interior (leather seats), a softer and fuzzier Cut Pile carpet was installed. The Cut Pile carpet was actually a lighter carpet then the 80/20 but Chevrolet decided to use it regardless. This style of carpet would become the only style offered in all 1978-1993 Corvettes. From 1984-1993 Cut Pile carpet came with mass backing which was meant to insulate the interior from noise and heat. At Zip, we offer the Cut Pile carpet with a replacement poly backing which is a less expensive moisture resistant backing that is still able to withstand years of use.

From 1994-1996 the Corvette’s carpet changed from Cut Pile to TruVette carpet. This carpet came with perfect contours, molded heel pads and serged bindings. TruVette carpet is a very light and very plush carpet made of 100% solution dyed nylon.

Corvette Carpet Samples

As you can see there were several different types of carpets used over the years. When it comes to restoring your Corvette, be certain you are installing the correct carpet set to keep your Corvette all original. At Zip, we sell the best carpet available for your Corvette; excellent quality, excellent fit and perfect color. If you think it is finally time to replace that 30, 40 or even 50 year old Corvette Carpet Set, do so with the knowledge and confidence necessary to make your Corvette’s interior look exactly original.

For detailed step by step installation instructions with pictures, visit www.CorvetteMagazine.com to read technical articles such as:

• Interior Upgrade – Turn Your 1963-1967 Corvette’s From Old To New
• Wall To Wall Overhaul – New Carpet Installation For 1968 -1979 Corvettes
• Installing New Carpet In Our Millennium Makeover 1974 Stingray
• Interior Restoration – Make Your 1978-1982 Corvette Look Like New

Still not sure you can do it? That is ok; not only does Zip Corvette sell the best Corvette carpet, they can install it too! Leave your Corvette carpet installation to the professionals and call Zip for an appointment today.

Front Suspension

This project is a major rebuild job and will take some time, but your Corvette will feel like new and you know you will not need to worry about anything in the front suspension for years to come. This is the perfect project for the winter months.

We replaced the springs, power steering pump, ram, valve, hoses, idler arm, drag link, tie rods, sleeves, control arm bushings, bumpers, stabilizer bar bushings, end kits and shocks on this 1978 Corvette. All 63-82 Corvettes have very similar front suspension and steering parts.

Click Here to read the entire Corvette Front Suspension Rebuild Article.

Should I replace the bushings on my Corvette with rubber or polyurethane?

When it’s all said and done, your final decision will come down to what you want out of your Corvette.

Rubber Bushings

With the rubber bushings from Zip Corvette, you know you are getting exact reproductions of the originals used in the factory upon assembly. They look, feel and perform just as the stock bushings would have 30, 40 or even 50 years ago, therefore, meeting any NCRS judging requirements will not be an issue. The problem with rubber bushings is that they are far less durable and do not perform like polyurethane bushings. They begin to break down just after a few years and before you know it, a new set is once again on the list of Corvette Parts to buy.

Polyurethane Bushings

If you are tired of the rubber bushings or would like to add some performance to your Corvette, then polyurethane is the way to go. Polyurethane bushings maximize your suspensions potential with quicker, more predictable responses, boosting the performance level of your Corvette. Not only do they increase the performance level but they last much longer then rubber. The only problem with polyurethane bushings is that they are not original. They will not meet NCRS judging standards. If you are restoring a show car, you should stay with the rubber as opposed to polyurethane.

Resto Poly Bushings

If you can’t make up your mind which way to go, then settle for the best of both worlds. The new C1, C2, and C3 “resto poly” bushings from Zip Corvette Parts are designed to look like the original rubber bushings but perform and last like polyurethane. They feature a “matte” finish and utilize the factory brackets designed for your Corvette.

Corvette Rear Script

The rear script, along with virtually all other decorative trim and insignias on Mid-Year Corvettes, is made of chrome-plated pot metal. Over time, due to exposure to moisture and the elements, the chrome plating develops pits and pocks as the pot metal underneath the plating reacts to changes in moisture content and air-borne chemicals. While replacing this script is a bit more involved that one would think at first blush, it’s easy enough to do with some simple tools and a couple of hours worth of labor. Here’s how to go about it with a new script…

Click here to read our Corvette Rear Script Replacement Article

How do I remove the cluster from my 1965 C2 Corvette?

Answer: There is no step by step guide that I know of, but 1965 Corvette clusters are very easy to remove. You can start by disconnecting the battery. Then loosen the column and lower it. Once you have done that, you can remove the speedometer and tachometer cables. You will need to disconnect

Midyear Corvette Instrument Cluster

the oil pressure line and make sure you have a little plastic cup under it so oil does not get on your carpet. Once you have done all of this, you can unscrew the dash. To do this, unscrew all the perimeter screws around the top and the dash will come out. You will have to unplug all the electrical connectors as well. Once you have completed the following steps you should be able to remove the cluster from your Corvette.

For more information on restoring your Midyear Corvette’s cluster to its original state click here.

Do you have a Corvette technical question that you need answered?
Click here to submit your question.

1967 Reproduction Master Cylinder

It is no secret that 1967 Corvette master cylinders, both standard and power, have been on the market for years. Many enthusiasts have gotten by with these basic replacements in the past for the simple fact that there were no other options. Well, what about the dual bleeders that were on the original master cylinders? Or the “DC” and “PG” trademarks that were stamped into the front pad? How about the original GM casting numbers? To some, these details may seem pointless but to an NCRS judge, they could matter.

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With demand for Corvette parts growing, the quality of the parts are becoming much more of a factor. While yesterdays parts may be “good enough”, there is still room for improvement in the correctness and quality of many of those parts. Zip Corvette has for years hunted down and purchased many of the most correct parts a best in show Corvette would require. You can now add 1967-1982 master cylinders to that forever growing list.

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There are two 1967 master cylinder options, one of which will be correct for your Corvette. The first is for a 1967 Corvette with standard or power brakes but not the J56 special heavy duty brakes factory option (only 267 made). This master cylinder is reproduced to exact specifications as original. It has the correct GM casting number (5455509), “DC” trademark stamped into the front pad for identification, and dual bleeder screws. It also has a 1″ bore as all standard and power brake Corvettes had and comes with a reproduction cap.

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The second master cylinder option is for 1967 Corvettes that had the optional J56 special heavy duty brake package. This master cylinder also comes with the correct GM casting number (5460346), dual bleeder screws, and reproduction cap. The J56 option master cylinder had a trademark stamping but used “PG” instead of “DC” for identification purposes. This master cylinder comes with a larger 1 1/8″ bore hints the name heavy-duty.

Installing new U-joints in your Corvette can turn into a costly job. A simple $30.00 repair could grow into the replacement of your entire driveshaft. For a no-hassle removal, you will need a tool similar to Zip Corvette’s U-Joint Removal Tool, or a standard shop press.

63-67 Corvette

Begin by removing the retaining clips on the U-joint bearing caps. Support the underside of the yoke with a large socket (1 1/4”) on the bed of the press, and then begin pressing the U-joint with a smaller socket or rod. Make sure the U-joint is square and all pressure is placed onto the bearing cap – this will help keep the yoke from absorbing the pressure and possibly damaging the driveshaft. Continue pressing the U-joint until it can go no further. Remove the cap you pressed out with a pair of pliers, then reverse the driveshaft and press the opposite cap in the same manner. Once out, you will be able to remove the U-joint from the driveshaft.

To install the new U-joint, lightly sand the inside of the yoke to clean out any corrosion or burrs, then spray with WD-40 to make installation smoother. Begin installation of the new U-joint by removing one cap and pressing it halfway into the driveshaft yoke. Now place the U-joint inside the yoke and press the cap all the way in. Press the second cap into the yoke, being careful to align it with the U-joint. Then reinstall the spring clips and make sure they are fully seated into the groove. You are done!