Our 1973-1982 Corvette Wiper Compartment Cover adds the perfect finishing touch to any 1973-1982 Corvette’s cowl. The wiper compartment covers are made of ABS plastic and can be painted to match any paint scheme. Benefits of installing the wiper compartment cover on 1973-1982 Corvettes include:
1973-1982 Corvette Cowl Cover
- Provides a clean look over the stock cowl area
- Reduces the collection of leaves and debris
- Will not interfere with your Corvette’s wipers
- Can be painted to match your Corvette’s paint
Installation of the 1973-1982 Corvette Wiper Compartment Cover requires very little modifications. If you are going to paint the cover do so before installing. Once you are ready to install the compartment cover you will need to trim the trailing edge of the firewall, this is best done with a file. After trimming, install the cover to check for proper fit. You should turn your Corvette’s Windshield Wipers on and then stop them half way up by shutting off the ignition. Each wiper arm should then be run through the corresponding hole in the wiper compartment cover. The cover is then slid down onto the firewall. If the cover sits flush with the top of the firewall and the trailing edge rests tightly against the windshield, proper fit has been achieved.
Corvette Wiper Compartment Cover
If you would like to strongly mount the Corvette Wiper Compartment Cover, though it is not required, simply use four strips of adhesive backed velcro. Each strip should be approximately 4″ long and should be 3″ and 10″ from the side of the cover. If placed correctly the two front strips should fall directly on top of the firewall with the rear strips attaching to the windshield glass. If minor interferences are noticed you may have to file away the necessary amount of material.
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The Corvette did not become America’s favorite sports car by sporting the same old every day colors and designs. It is in a league of its own from every interior detail to all of the Corvette body curves and lines. One thing that most anyone would agree on when buying or looking at a Corvette is that by pure instinct we are all going to focus on several different aspects; including the Corvette’s Carpet. Immediately following a few quick glances at the front and rear carpet it is only natural to come up with our own personal thoughts towards the overall condition. The point is that the cleanliness of the Corvette’s Carpet can have a huge impact on the overall rating of the car. Do not cheat yourself or your Corvette of the glamor well deserved by ignoring the problem right under your feet. An old, faded, or dirty carpet will surely make the entire car look poor, while a new, clean carpet will make it stand out as exceptional.
Corvette Carpet
As certain trends move in and out of style, Corvette Carpet color and material do as well. What was original in 1953 was not the same in 1963. The material used in 1963, may or may not have been used in 1973. What kind of carpet was used in 1993? As you can see there are many questions that have been raised over the years by Corvette enthusiasts just like you. Zip Corvette has put the time and effort into sorting out the different possibilities so you will be certain your Corvette’s Carpet is 100% correct, fits perfect, and looks great too.
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80/20, C1, C2, C3, C4, Carpet, Cut Pile, Daytona, Gros Point, Heat Barrier, Interior, TruVette, Tuxedo, Underlayment
As with any car, the 63-82 Corvette front suspension has many items that wear out over time. In this article we cover almost every aspect of the front suspension as well as the steering system.
Front Suspension
This project is a major rebuild job and will take some time, but your Corvette will feel like new and you know you will not need to worry about anything else in the front suspension for years to come. This is the perfect project for the winter months.
We replaced the springs, power steering pump, ram, valve, hoses, idler arm, drag link, tie rods, sleeves, control arm bushings, bumpers, stabilizer bar bushings, end kits, and shocks on this 1978 Corvette, and all 63-82 Corvettes have very similar front suspension and steering parts.
Click Here to read the entire Corvette Front Suspension Rebuild Article.
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We have just listed on eBay a 1978 L-82 Corvette that we have for sale at Zip Corvette.
This is a nice, clean 1978 Corvette Coupe. VIN# 1Z8748S436272. This is a matching numbers L-82 (350-220hp) car. 12,739 made out of 49,776 total production. Automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power locks (they still work) and convenience group.
The paint is beautiful Corvette yellow with matching front and rear pace car spoilers. It looks awesome. The interior is dark brown and blends well with the paint. The following upgrades have recently been done with all new parts:
Steering wheel, carpet, seat covers, radiator hoses, heater hoses, intake gaskets, fan clutch, thermostat, trim rings, all gaskets and fluids changed.
This was a Carmax trade in back in Feb 08 and we have been doing the upgrades and playing with it since. The yellow paint makes this car jump. The car runs and drives great and it ready for you to get in and drive. The miles show 55,215 but as with all cars 25 years and older we sell them as not actual miles because you just can’t prove anything.
If you want a good looking and good driving Corvette that stands out in the crowd, then this one may be for you. Good Luck. Click here to see it on eBay
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Many Corvette enthusiasts who have restored 1953-1982 Corvettes have almost certainly come across one common question. Should I replace the bushings on my Corvette with rubber or polyurethane? When it is all said and done your final decision will come down to what you want out of your Corvette.
Rubber Bushings
With the rubber bushings from Zip Corvette you know you are getting exact reproductions of the originals used in the factory upon assembly. They look, feel, and perform just as the stock bushings would have 30, 40, or even 50 years ago so meeting any NCRS judging requirements will not be an issue. The problem with rubber bushings is that they are far less durable and do not perform like polyurethane bushings. They begin to break down just after a few years and before you know it a new set is once again on the list of Corvette Parts to buy.
Polyurethane Bushings
If you are tired of the rubber bushings or would like to add some performance to your Corvette then polyurethane is the way to go. Polyurethane bushings maximize your suspensions potential with quicker, more predictable responses boosting the performance level of your Corvette. Not only do they increase the performance level but they last much longer then rubber too. The one and only problem with polyurethane bushings is that they are not original. They will not meet NCRS judging standards so for those who are restoring a show car you would want to stay with the rubber as opposed to polyurethane.
Resto Poly Bushings
If you can not make up your mind which way to go then settle for the best of both worlds. The new C1, C2, and C3 “resto poly” bushings from Zip Corvette Parts are designed to look like the original rubber bushings but perform and last like polyurethane. They feature a “matte” finish and utilize the factory brackets designed for your Corvette.
C1, C2, C3, Corvette Bushings, Corvette Polyurethane Bushings, Corvette Rubber Bushings, Corvette Suspension, NCRS Judging, Performance, Polyurethane, Reproductions
Corvette Power Window Motor
In the 1968 to 1976 Corvette power window motor design, GM used the same motors as the 56-67 Corvette, but they flipped them around so what was a left hand motor in a 56-67 Corvette became a right hand motor in the 68-76 Corvette, and vice versa. However, the manufacturer of the motor never changed and neither did their part number, so when you look at the right hand motor (passenger side) in a 68-77 Corvette, the motor is stamped “LH” for left hand. It is a left hand for a 56-67, but not a 68-77. This leads to confusion many times when a customer receives a new window motor that is correct, but they think it is wrong. Of course you always need to be aware of how GM determined what is left and what is right, it was from sitting in the car; RH=passenger LH=driver. Also, GM changed the electrical plug midyear 1976, so all motors produced by GM after the middle of 1976 had the new design plug. In 1978 the motor changed again, but it was only by adding a bracket to the back of the motor, the rest of the motor and the plug was the same as the late 76. The motors that are supplied now will work in all applications, but if you are installing this motor in 56-76E (E=early) then you will also need a power window motor conversion harness so that the motor will plug into the earlier harness in your Corvette.
Here’s a project that’s fairly easy to do and only requires standard tools. The entire replacement of the power window motor should be completed in about 1.5 hours from start to finish.
Click here to read our Corvette Power Window Motor Replacement article.
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Today’s Corvette technical question comes from a C3 Corvette owner
How do I adjust the windshield wipers on my 1976 Corvette:
Answer: The wiper arms fit into a specific groove on the wiper arm transmissions coming through the top of the cowl, therefore no adjustment exists on the exterior of your 1968-1982 Corvette. The
Wiper Arm Adjustment
adjustments for your wiper arm locations are found on the backside of the Corvettes wiper motor where the link arms attach to the wiper motor ball stud. This can easily be found on 1973-1982 Corvettes where access is granted, on 1968-1972 Corvettes the wiper door may need to be removed or lifted in the very highest position. Once the nuts are loosened, the wiper link arms will “slide” to allow for proper adjustment. The nuts can be tightened once the arm locations are adjusted enough to make sure the wiper blades do not hit when returning to their inside position.
Do you have a Corvette technical question that you need answered? Click here to submit your question.
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Today’s Corvette technical question comes from a 1977 Corvette owner.
How do I remove the body from my 1977 C3 Corvette? I have all bolts removed but cannot get the body to move.
Answer: With all the bolts removed from the body mount to frame positions (8 total for 68-82 Corvettes), as well as the steering column, shift cables, battery cables, fuel lines and ground straps disconnected, the body should be ready for removal. Often times the deterioration of metal shims and aluminum or rubber bushings (depending on year, 68-72 aluminum & 73-82 rubber) cause the body to seem “stuck” when trying to remove it from the frame. First, make sure the lifting process does not
1963-1982 Body Lift Kit
damage your Corvette’s body. We suggest using a lifting system such as our Corvette body lift kit (ZM-293). This system lifts the body from a single point and hooks onto the rocker channels pulling straight up from a solid point that will not cause any damage to your Corvette’s fiberglass panels (for body lift kit installation instructions click here). Even with a body lifting system, your Corvette’s body may still be “stuck” to the frame due to years of compression and corrosion. Next, as you apply pressure with the body lift system, gently pry with a large pry bar between the cushions and frame mount to break loose these connections. Make sure that when you remove the body you take notice of the various shims used at each mounting point. This will aid your reinstallation of the body, creating a fit just as the factory created when your Corvette body was originally installed.
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Today’s Corvette technical question is one that has been asked over and over by 1968-1977 Corvette owners:
How do I remove my Corvette’s speedometer?
Answer: While you can see the entire speedometer and tachometer in your C3 generation Corvette, removal is not easy. Due to space constraints, steering column placement, main wiring harness routing, vacuum hose connections and speed/tach cables, just sliding up under the dash and removing the gauges are not possible. The first step is dropping the column. No reason to remove the column, just remove the bolts that hold the column to the underdash support and allow the column to “lay down”. Next you can disconnect the speedometer and tach cable connections on the back of the gauges. These cables are attached with knurled nuts in 1968 and then in 1969 through 1977 a spring clip was used to hold the cable to the back of the gauge mechanism. Next, remove the screws on the LH side next to the door jamb, screws holding the lower dash to the upper dash, and several screws coming in from the side on the center cluster bezel. Once the dash pad is worked loose, vacuum connections can be disconnected, vent ball duct disconnected, harness plugs for the headlight switch removed, clips holding the main wiring harness can be undone and the dash light bulbs removed from the back of the gauge housings. The lower dash pad can now be placed in a position for removal of the speedometer and tachometer. Both gauges attach to the back of the dash pad with several screws, upon removal you now have access to either replace or rebuild. Be careful with all components involved, the dash pad and speed/tach housing bezels are plastic and tabs easily break on plastic that is over 30 years old.
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C3, Corvette Gauges, Corvette Speedomoter, Corvette Speedomoter Bezels, Corvette Tachometer Bezels
Today’s Corvette technical question is one that many 1968-1982 Corvette owners have asked when their heater system stopped working properly:
How do you change the heater core in an A.C. equipped Corvette?
Answer: 1968-1982 Corvette heater cores typically begin leaking due to a breakdown in materials dropping anti-freeze and coolant on your Corvette’s carpet. This is not a pretty sight. Removal of the heater core takes place from inside your Corvette. First the RH side lower dash pad must be removed, then access can be gained to the inner heater box. Remove all duct work (windshield defrost, floor duct, side ducts, etc.). The main inner heater box is supported to the firewall by 4 to 6 studs, these stud plates are riveted to the inner heater box. By removing the nut on the opposite side of the firewall, the inner box can be removed from the Corvette. The heater core is mounted with straps inside the inner heater box. Once the inner box is removed from the Corvette, the heater core can be replaced and reassembly can begin. At this time it is also a good idea to replace all the seals in your Corvette’s heater & air condition system. Seal kits for 68-77 & 78-82 Corvettes include duct work seals, inner box seals, heater/ac flapper door seals and firewall mount seals for internal and external heater boxes. Replacing these seals not only improves your Corvette’s heater & AC performance, but also eliminates air drafts which are common on all C3 Corvettes.
For more detailed instructions and pictures on changing a 1968-1982 Corvette’s heater core click here.
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C3, Corvette Heater, Corvette Heater Box, Corvette Heater Core, Corvette Heater System, Corvette Seal Kits
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